Several days ago, I promised to post the family potato kugel recipe. I was 27 before my mother got around to giving me copies of my great-grandmother’s Passover recipes, so I feel quite timely posting them in the same month. All recipes assume that you’re using kosher-for-Passover matzoh meal. (If you don’t know what I am talking about, just buy regular matzoh meal and leave the kosher-for-Passover stuff for those of us who do.)
Mummum’s Potato Kugel
1 large onion, minced
1/8 lb. butter or chicken fat (or vegetarian chicken fat substitute–a concept that I find both amusing and disturbing)
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups grated raw potatoes (measure after draining well)
1/2 cup matzoh meal
1 1/2 tsp salt
pepper to taste
Saute the onion in the fat of choice until lightly browned. Add eggs to potatoes. Add matzoh meal, salt, and pepper to eggs and potatoes. Stir in the onions and the fat in which they have been sauteed. Pour into a well-greased (and I cannot emphasize that enough–well-greased!) 1-quart casserole dish. Bake at 350 degrees until the edges are crisp, about 1 hour. Serves 6.
Note: This kugel will come out of the oven gray. Don’t worry; it’s supposed to. If gray food disturbs you, toss the grated potatoes with a small amount of lemon juice and drain again before adding the eggs. (The first time my mom used lemon juice, it came out of the oven fluffly and golden on the outside, and pale cream on the inside. After thirty years of gray kugel, it looked wrong. Appetizing, but wrong.)
This is actually a scaled-back version of the recipe that my great-grandmother used. Originally, it was probably about four times the yield and made in a roasting pan. (She used to make enormous pies in roasting pans, too, but that’s another story.) The following recipes have also been scaled back to yield somewhat less than you would use to feed an entire village.
Mummum’s Matzoh Balls
2 eggs
1 Tbsp butter or chicken fat (or vegetarian chicken fat substitute–the concept becomes more disturbing than amusing the longer I think about it)
scant 1/2 cup matzoh meal
2 Tbsp chicken broth
dash pepper
dash salt
little ground ginger, if desired
Beat the eggs with a fork until foamy. Add remaining ingredients. Mixture should be thick, but not dry. Refrigerate at least one hour. With wet hands (the secret to good matzoh balls) form into small balls. Drop into salted boiling water and cook slowly for 45 minutes in a covered pot.
Despite my uncle’s and cousin’s opinion to the contrary, the matzoh balls should be light and fluffy, and they are supposed to float. If they sink, you have overworked the dough and they are better used as grapeshot than served to anyone you like.
Mummum’s Charosis
2 tart apples
1 Tbsp Passover wine (the only good use of Manischewitz, as far as I’m concerned)
1/2 cup nuts (preferably walnuts)
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp honey (optional, probably because Mom doesn’t like to make anything with more than four ingredients)
Pare and core apples. Chop apples and nuts together, until you have a reasonably fine consistency. (Do not use the food processor, or you’ll have nutty applesauce.) Add cinnamon, wine, and honey. Makes about 2 cups.
In my immediate family, the charosis is traditionally forgotten during the Seder meal, and consumed during the rest of the week. We do the same thing with cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving.
Mummum’s Passover Sponge Cake
12 large eggs
12 rounded Tbsp sugar
9 rounded Tbsp Passover cake meal (if eggs are small, use 8 rounded tablespoons. If more nuts are used, use less cake meal. Do not make batter too viscous.)
grated lemon rind (Presumably from one lemon. The card doesn’t say.)
1/2 lb. walnuts, chopped finely (optional–see honey above)
Separate eggs. Take the time to do this carefully, because you need the whites to gain as much volume as possible when you beat them. Mix the yolks, sugar and lemon rind. Add the cake meal and mix very well. Beat the egg whites until they are very stiff, and fold into cake batter, working as little as possible to retain air volume. Bake 45 minutes at 350 degrees.
I’ve never had the cake with walnuts, probably because they aren’t even mentioned in the instructions. I’d guess that they go in before the egg whites, but life is full of little uncertainties.