Last night, a friend of mine who has an apple tree in her front yard gave me a several-pound bag of apples. These are not your picture perfect, tasteless, scarlet spheroids. No, these are apples with attitude. They’ve got swoops and valleys. They’re multicolored. And they’re very popular with the bugs and birds, apparently.
The skins were a total loss, so I was immediately drawn to the idea of applesauce or apple butter. You can make applesauce in the microwave, which seemed a little too fast, as I have a lot of laundry to do this afternoon. I started off looking at the recipe in my 1993 Better Homes & Gardens cookbook, but I am temperamentally incapable of regarding it as anything more than a general guideline. Especially as it specified 6 cups of apples and honestly, I guessed at how much I had. It seemed on the heavy side of six-ish, but honestly? I was too lazy to measure.
So then…
Sort out your laundry according to your personal preference. Put the first load in the washer, and go core, peel, and quarter your apples. You can put them in lemon water to keep them from turning brown, but the apple butter is going to turn out brown anyway, so there’s no need to feel compelled. Because I was using natural apples, I only was able to use about 75% of what I’d been given, after cutting out various bad spots.
Wash your hands, and move the first load of laundry to the dryer. Start your second load of laundry.
Back in the kitchen, get out a good-sized pot (8-10 quart Dutch oven, sayeth BH&G. Pasta pot, quoth I.). For each pound of apple quarters, add 1 cup of unsweetened (I’m looking at you, high-fructose corn syrup) apple juice. BH&G says you can use apple cider instead, which actually would have been my preference had the supermarket had any, which it didn’t. Bring the lot to a boil, cover the pot, and turn down the heat. Simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Check the laundry, discover that the towels are still damp, and add time to the dryer.
Take the simmered apples off the heat. BH&G instructs us to press the simmered apples through a food mill or sieve. Too messy. Perfect opportunity to use the stick blender, which did indeed work like a charm and clean up quickly & easily, and did not require an extra bowl or anything.
Stir in 1/2 cup sugar per pound of apples that you started with.
Next, one adds the spices. Personally, I have found BH&G to be quite timid and stingy when it comes to herbs and spices. For six pounds of apples, the book recommends 2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon, and 1/2 teaspoon each of cloves and allspice. Granted, you’re going to reduce the apple butter considerably, but still. Besides, I tend to keep most of my spices whole, and grind as needed, so the odds of me getting an exact half-teaspoon of anything are vanishingly small.
I put about a tablespoon and a half each of whole cloves and allspice berries into the spare coffee grinder, and ground them down to a fairly fine powder. I added 1 1/2 teaspoons of the mix to the apple butter, with an extremely generous tablespoon of cinnamon. The apple puree will turn the brown color (see above) of really good milk chocolate as you stir in the spices.
I had a lot of ground spice left over, so I added an equal amount of cinnamon and stuck it in an empty spice jar for later use.
Bring the spiced apple puree back to a boil. Turn it down and let it simmer with the lid off for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Put the second load of laundry in the dryer, and enjoy the fact that your house smells like apple pie.
After 30 minutes of reducing, I tasted the apple puree. I decided that it needed something more, so I grated in half of a whole nutmeg, and added about 1/2 teaspoon each of ground mace and vanilla powder. After tasting, I seriously considered the prospect of pouring the thin sauce over some really good vanilla ice cream, before I realized that I don’t have any.
And that’s where things stand now. The apple puree is a about the consistency of thick pancake batter, and BH&G tells me to expect it to thicken up sufficiently after another 90 minutes or so of simmering. I’m not set up for home canning, so I intend to freeze most of what doesn’t get given away. My friend with the tree will get some, of course, and I shall also foist some off on my parents.
Pardon me, while I go check on the laundry.
ETA: My apple butter cooked down to a nice, thick consistency in about 90 minutes rather than the 2 hours predicted by BH&G. Fill your kitchen sink partway with ice water (very easy, if you have a lot of ice water left in your beer cooler from the previous night’s party) and let it chill down. Stir it around frequently so that it cools faster. Ladle into containers to freeze, if it lasts that long. BH&G predicts enough to fill 8 half-pint jars if you start with six pounds of apples.